New leader time.

[MotoLappa]

Ok I need to intsall a new leader. What is the norm? Are people using a perfection loop or a blood knot or another alternative? Currently it has a blood knot but I must admit I have trouble tying it. What is common?

 

[littlelehigh]

I use perfection loops and if the new leaders doesn't have one on it at the time of purchase I just add one. Helps make experimenting that much easier.

 

[albatross]

If your flyline already has a loop use a loop to loop connection, otherwise use a nail knot.

 

[jayL]

I would recommend adding a loop if there is none. This enables you to carry multiple leaders, and to change easily on the stream. Unless I'm using furled, I switch leaders whenever I switch between dries, nymphs, and streamers. Harvey, straight tippet with amnesia butt, and a leader tapered to 12lb test respectively. As a beginner, I would have had no use for all of those leaders, but I think it's good to set your rig up for a quick change, should you decide you want to experiment.

 

[MotoLappa]

Well I spent the last few hours tying blood knots. I am pretty comfortable with them now. I think the loop work be way easier way to switch at a creek side. I am pretty sure this is the way I will go next time. I do not have a welded loop at the end of my line. Is there an advantage to one rather than tying a loop?

 

[jayL]

I usually cut my welded loops off when a line comes with them.

Cut the end of the line at a 45 degree angle, so that it fits nicely together when you loop it.

Create the loop and pinch it with your fingers or a tying vise.

Use heavy tying thread to secure the wrap shut. I like to use bright colors as kind of a strike indicator.

Whip finish it or throw a few half hitches in.

Cover it with knotsense or super glue.

I haven't found a good picture yet, but it basically looks like a welded loop with thread covering the base.

 

[Alpabuck]

Is your way that much better jay?

 

[jayL]

Than a welded loop?

Yes. I've had a few welded loops fail. I never have had one of the whipped loops come close.

Is it better than a nail knot? I think so. Changing leaders is important to me. You could nail knot some heavy mono and loop it, but I think the welded loop casts nicer, and it's indestructible.

The braided connectors have cost me fish, and they sink.

I have yet to find a better solution.

 

[gfen]

I started with the leader directly nailknotted to the line. I hated it, because I hated cutting the end of the line off to replace it.

I then moved to the piece of Amnesia nailknotted with the perfection loop, then I just tie it into the butt of the leader. When I ran out of the little bit of Amnesia I copped from the Cabela's winding table, I just used heavy mono.

Then the whipped loops, and I wasn't a fan. THey seemed too prone to sink or soak water and slap down.

Now, I've got some welded loops, and I find it far superior to the whipped loop, and it'll definatly float better.

Lines without the welded loops get hand-twisted lenghts of red mono to make a 4" long piece with a loop on the end. A couple of nail knots to keep it on the end, and I'm done.

Edit: http://america-promo.store/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=163463#forumpost163463%3C/div%3E

 

[gfen]

Interesting take on why you dislike the welded loops, I haven't been burned yet, but I can see why you might be leery.

 

[jayL]

As the line ages, it's the first place where it splits and cracks. The first time I used a whipped loop, I did it because the welded loop was failing. I still have a welded loop on one or two lines because I'm lazy. Fishability-wise, they are nice. Until I got over the fear of doing the whipped loops, I always bought lines with welded ones. Durability is where they stink, IMO. For that same reason, I fear they'll fail on me when I hook a fish.

 

[gfen]

I'd be more likely to put a nail knot over the place where the welded loop melds or just thread wrap the whole thing.

I don't like cutting the line tip because it'll let the core wick water into it.

 

[jayL]

Never thought of that. I think knotsense might prevent it. Super glue... probably not.

Drawing board time.

 

[gfen]

Problem with superglues is they dry into something hard, which is just prone to then crack the coating of the line (and let water wick in) where the glue stops and that constant flexing from the casting.

If I understand, Knotsense and Pilobond are both soft, but I haven't had to really cross this bridge other than my abbreviated experience with whipped loops.

 

[MotoLappa]

Found this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFluzChZSlo
It was an ok video on how a whipped loop is done. He used nail polish to glue it. I would think for sure that would be hard and crack. Good replies and info from all. I appreciate it. Thanks

 

[jayL]

Never thought of flipping the bobbin around like that. I always did it reverse-handed, which sucks.

Good stuff!

 

[afishinado]

That's pretty much the way I do it. I learned that method a long time ago rewrapping bow strings.

Gfen wrote: "If I understand, Knotsense and Pilobond are both soft"....


Pliobond remains soft, but Knotsense hardens. I've experimented with using a dab of clear silicone bathtub seal. I just spread a little bit on the windings with a toothpick. I remains soft and pliable, and floats rather well. Give it a try.

 

[Acristickid]

I do the cutting off of the loop and nail knot on a 25 or 20 lb peice of maxima. I have never noticed my leader riding any lower.

So much of this fly fishing stuff is personal preference. You just have to try a couple different styles. Easier the better at first I would think.

Gonna give the Orvis Hy-Float a try for the butt section.
(after I cut that loop off- hehehe)

Never tried a furled leader yet. Maybe I will leave that one on my dry fly rod. That is meant for dries, correct?

The loop to loop- no doubt is easier to make changes and speeds up the changing so you can do more fishing. I am usually changing sections as the loopers are casting me by.

Still cycling through gear and tactics to see which ones work best for me.

 

[afishinado]

acristickid wrote:
I do the cutting off of the loop and nail knot on a 25 or 20 lb peice of maxima. I have never noticed my leader riding any lower.

So much of this fly fishing stuff is personal preference. You just have to try a couple different styles. Easier the better at first I would think.

[color=CC0000]Gonna give the Orvis Hy-Float a try for the butt section.[/color]
(after I cut that loop off- hehehe)

[color=FF0000]Never tried a furled leader yet. Maybe I will leave that one on my dry fly rod. That is meant for dries, correct?[/color]

The loop to loop- no doubt is easier to make changes and speeds up the changing so you can do more fishing. I am usually changing sections as the loopers are casting me by.

Still cycling through gear and tactics to see which ones work best for me.

I used the Orvis Hy-float as my leader butt for a few seasons and it worked just fine. I believe Dryflyguy uses it that way all the time.

For the past few seasons I've been using my homemade furled leaders and they work well. I use them for dries as well as nymphing. The furled butt floats (floating paste also helps) and I use it as my Indy for nymphing. Furled leaders are great for Euro nymphing as well as high sticking.

Good stuff to mess around with, Paul, to find what works best for you. Good luck.

 

[JasonS]

Gfen wrote: "If I understand, Knotsense and Pilobond are both soft"....


Pliobond remains soft, but Knotsense hardens. I've experimented with using a dab of clear silicone bathtub seal. I just spread a little bit on the windings with a toothpick. I remains soft and pliable, and floats rather well. Give it a try.

I just turned a DT line around the other day and decided to do a whipped loop. I ended up using loons UV wader repair to coat the windings. It stays soft and seems to float.